Seth Thomas Pocket Watch Models 15 - 17
The Seth Thomas 6-size Model 15 and Model 16 utilized a flat hairspring. When Seth Thomas decided that Model 17 would utilize the Breguet hairspring the regulator and balance bridge were modified to maximize the efficiency of the new hairspring. In the images below you can compare Model 16 and Model 17 to see the modifications made to accommodate the new technology.
In the 6-size movement that utilize a flat hairspring the balance bridge extends beneath the entire circumference of the regulator ring. In the 6-size movements that utilize a Breguet hairspring a portion of the balance bridge is cut or milled away to permit a shorter regulator arm to grasp the Breguet hairspring closer to its center. This modification to the balance bridge is difficult to see with the regulator in place; but it can be detected by swinging the regulator pointer clockwise to see if it will extend beyond the edge of the balance bridge. With a flat hairspring the pointer easily extends beyond the balance bridge as long as the hairspring stud is installed properly and not extending above the surface of the bridge. A regulator designed for the Breguet hairspring will only extend until the regulator arm hits the continuation of the balance bridge below the regulator ring. This will prevent the regulator pointer from extending beyond the edge of the regulator. This limitation of the regulator swing becomes a simple test to tell the Model 15’s and 16’s from the Model 17’s, and the Model 18’s from the Model 19’s. The production of Model 18 movements subsequent to serial number 4,000,000 also utilized the Breguet hairspring with the same modifications to the regulator and balance bridge.
In the images below can compare the sizes of the regulators designed for use with the Breguet hairspring, Model 17 and Model 19, with the regulators designed for use with the flat hairsprings, Model 16 and Model 18.
The image on the left shows the Model 17 regulator on the left with a shorter regulator arm to engage the Breguet hairspring closer to its core. The regulator on the right is from the older Model 16 designed for use with the flat hairspring.
The image on the left shows the Model 19 regulator on the left with a shorter regulator arm to engage the Breguet hairspring closer to its core. The regulator on the right is from the older Model 18 designed for use with the flat hairspring.
The Seth Thomas 6-size Model 15 and Model 16 utilized a flat hairspring. When Seth Thomas decided that Model 17 would utilize the Breguet hairspring the regulator and balance bridge were modified to maximize the efficiency of the new hairspring. In the images below you can compare Model 16 and Model 17 to see the modifications made to accommodate the new technology.
Click this link to open the Model 15 Photo Album in a new tab.
The Seth Thomas 6-size Model 15 and Model 16 utilized a flat hairspring. When Seth Thomas decided that Model 17 would utilize the Breguet hairspring the regulator and balance bridge were modified to maximize the efficiency of the new hairspring. In the images below you can compare Model 16 and Model 17 to see the modifications made to accommodate the new technology.
Click this link to open the Model 16 Photo Album in a new tab.
The Seth Thomas 6-size Model 15 and Model 16 utilized a flat hairspring. When Seth Thomas decided that Model 17 would utilize the Breguet hairspring the regulator and balance bridge were modified to maximize the efficiency of the new hairspring. In the images below you can compare Model 16 and Model 17 to see the modifications made to accommodate the new technology.
Click this link to open the Model 17 Photo Album in a new tab.
Select Illustrated Grades Within Models 15 - 17
Seth Thomas Grade 5
7 Jewel - Model 15
This 1893-1898 Seth Thomas 6-size hunting Model 15 pocket watch was manufactured with a nickel finished 3/4 plate, 7 jewels, and it is non-adjusted. The movement is stem wound and lever set, with a flat hair spring, and plain/simple regulator. Its serial number is 138526, and its grade is Seth Thomas numbered grade 5. The movement is signed “Garden City [BHA]”.
The movement presents with a 6-size "Garden City" private label Roman dial with Ring Minute Track and Black 5-minute Marginals; fitted with Seth Thomas Open Morning Glory Hands 6-size. Garden City is a Private Label in Seth Thomas Model 15 and Seth Thomas Models 6 and 7.
Seth Thomas produced the Garden City pocket watch for the Chicago based jewelry wholesaler Lapp & Flershem. The engraved initials, BHA, in an oval represents the Lapp & Flershem trademark and logo “Busiest House in America”. Chicago Illinois is the “Garden City”.
6-size Illinois Watch Case Company, gold-filled, 20 Years watch case, serial number 1175945.
Seth Thomas Grade 35
7 Jewel - Model 16
This 1890-1892 Seth Thomas 6-size hunting Model 16 pocket watch was manufactured with a nickel finished 3/4 plate, 7 jewels, and it is non-adjusted. The movement is stem wound and lever set, with a flat hair spring, and plain/simple regulator. Its serial number is 160101, and its grade is Seth Thomas numbered grade 35. The movement is signed “Seth Thomas Thomaston, Conn.”. This is the 101st Seth Thomas Model 16 pocket watch produced. Model 16 serial numbers started at 160001 and concluded at 200000.
The movement presents with a 6-size Seth Thomas #1203 Roman dial with Ring Minute Track and Black 5-minute Marginals, fitted with Seth Thomas #1271 Spade Blue Hands - 6-size.
The movement is presently cased in a 6-size Fahys Watch Case Company, 14K gold-filled, 25 Years watch case, serial number 6563478.
Seth Thomas Grade 105
11 Jewel - Model 17
This 1893-1898 Seth Thomas 6-size hunting Model 17 pocket watch was manufactured with a two-tone finished 3/4 plate, 11 jewels, and it is non-adjusted. The movement is stem wound and lever set, with a Breguet hair spring, and plain/simple regulator. Its serial number is 423885, and its grade is Seth Thomas numbered grade 105. The movement is signed “Seth Thomas Thomaston, Conn.”.
The movement presents with a 6-size Seth Thomas #1203 Roman dial with ring minute track and black 5-minute marginals, fitted with Seth Thomas #1271 Spade Blue Hands - 6-size.
The movement is presently cased in a 6-size American Watch Case Co. of Toronto, Ltd. gold-filled Cashier hunting watch case with an ornate floral pattern and blue bird engraving, serial number 395188.
Seth Thomas Grade 105
11 Jewel - Model 16
This 1893-1898 Seth Thomas 6-size hunting Model 16 pocket watch was manufactured with a two-tone finished 3/4 plate, 11 jewels, and it is non-adjusted. The movement is stem wound and lever set, with a flat hair spring, and plain/simple regulator. Its serial number is 198407, and its grade is Seth Thomas numbered grade 105. The private label movement is signed “Edgemere Sears, Roebuck & Co. Chicago ”.
The movement presents with a 6-size "Edgemere" private label Roman dial with Ring Minute Track and Black 5-minute Marginals, fitted with Seth Thomas #1271 Spade Blue Hands - 6-size.
Edgemere is a private label in Seth Thomas Model 16, Model 17, Models 7, 8, 12, and 13.
The movement is presently cased in a 6-size Fahys Watch Case Company, Fahys Permanent 14K watch case with ornate floral design with color on front and back covers, serial number 6657747.
Seth Thomas Grade 205
15 Jewel - Model 17
This 1893-1898 Seth Thomas 6-size hunting Model 17 pocket watch was manufactured with a two-tone finished 3/4 plate, 15 jewels, and it is non-adjusted. The movement is stem wound and lever set, with a Breguet hair spring, and plain/simple regulator. Its serial number is 422228, and its grade is Seth Thomas numbered grade 205. The movement is signed “Seth Thomas Thomaston, Conn.”.
The movement presents with a 6-size Seth Thomas #1203 Roman dial with ring minute track and black 5-minute marginals, fitted with Seth Thomas #1271 Spade Blue Hands - 6-size.
The movement is presently not cased.
Seth Thomas Grade 205
15 Jewel - Model 16
This 1893-1898 Seth Thomas 6-size hunting Model 16 pocket watch was manufactured with a two-tone finished 3/4 plate, 15 jewels, and it is non-adjusted. The movement is stem wound and lever set, with a flat hair spring, and plain/simple regulator. Its serial number is 185580, and its grade is Seth Thomas numbered grade 205. The movement is signed “Seth Thomas Thomaston, Conn.”.
The movement presents with a 6-size Seth Thomas #1203 Roman dial with Ring Minute Track and Black 5-minute Marginals; fitted with Seth Thomas #1271 Spade Blue Hands - 6-size.
The movement is cased in a 6-size Illinois Watch Case Company, Sterling Silver watch case, serial number 600177.
Temporary Watch Case.
Seth Thomas Grade 225
17 Jewel - Model 17
This 1893-1898 Seth Thomas 6-size hunting Model 17 pocket watch was manufactured with a two-tone finished 3/4 plate, 17 jewels, and it is non-adjusted. The movement is stem wound and lever set, with a Breguet hair spring, and plain/simple regulator. Its serial number is 462611, and its grade is Seth Thomas numbered grade 225. The private label movement is signed “Edgemere Chicago, Ill.”. The 17 jewel Model 17 has a higher jewel count than any other 6-size Seth Thomas pocket watch. It has a unique finish pattern to celebrate that distinction.
The movement presents with a single-pressed 6-size Edgemere private label Roman dial with a ring minute track and black 5-minute marginals, fitted with Seth Thomas #1271 blued spade hands 6-size. Edgemere is a private label in Seth Thomas Model 8, Model 9, Model 12, and Model 13, Model 16, and Model 17; manufactured for Sears, Roebuck & Co. for sale in their mail order catalog.
The movement is cased in a 6-size Keystone Watch Case Company Silveroid (nickel) hunting watch case, serial number 8549581.
*References
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1.a 1885 R. & L. Freidlander Jobbers In American Watches Illustrated Price List, 65 & 67 Nassau Street, New York NY
1.b 1890 Illustrated Catalogue of Seth Thomas Clocks No. 495
1.c 1892 Illustrated Catalogue of Seth Thomas Clocks No. 531
1.d 1890 & 1895 Illustrated Catalog of Tools Materials, Finding and Supplies, Lapp & Flershem, 98 State Street, Chicago IL
1.e 1895 Illustrated Catalog of Tools Materials, Finding and Supplies, Lapp & Flershem, 98 State Street, Chicago IL
1.f 1896 Illustrated Catalog of Watches, A. C. Becken, 103 State Street, Chicago IL
1.g 1904 Seth Thomas Watch Material Catalog No. 650
1.h 1904 Seth Thomas Watch Material Illustrated Price List No. 671
1.i 1905 Seth Thomas Watch Movements Illustrated Price List September 15, 1905
1.j 1908 Seth Thomas Watch Movements Illustrated Price List September 1, 1908
1.k 1909 Seth Thomas Watch Movements Illustrated Price List October 1, 1909
1.l 1913 Seth Thomas Watch Movements Illustrated Price List Centennial Edition September 1, 1913
1.m 1914 Seth Thomas Clock Company Supplement No. 705 to Catalog No. 700 Illustrated Price List September 1, 1908
1.n Catalog of Seth Thomas Watch Models and Grades, compiled by Daniel J. Gaenger
1.o Seth Thomas’ Watches: Thirty Years of Manufacture, by Chris H. Bailey
1.p United States Patents granted to Herman A. T. Reinecke and Charles T. Higginbotham for watch features utilized by the Seth Thomas Company
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19. Holsman & Alter; Holsman & Alter Catalog; Unknown Date; 179 Madison Street, Chicago Illinois
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22. National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors
22.a The Railroader’s Corner – A Forum for the Discussion of Railroad Pocket Watches; Standard Watches of the Seth Thomas Clock Company; December 1998; National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors.
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25. Roddin & Company, E. V.; Jewelry, Watches, and Silverware; 1895; The American Historical Catalog Collection
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33. Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 127; 1913; Chicago Illinois, USA
34. Sears, Roebuck & Company; Compiled Catalogue; 1905-1910; Chicago Illinois, USA
35. Seth Thomas Clock Company; Seth Thomas Clocks No. 531;1892-1893; 49 Maiden Lane, New York New York.
36. Seth Thomas Clock Company; Seth Thomas Clocks No. 675;1909-1910; 15 Maiden Lane, New York New York.
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40. Shure Company, N.; The Shure Winner Pricelist; 1909; Chicago Illinois
41. Smyth & Company, John, M.; Dictionary of Economy - No. 62; 1909; Chicago Illinois
42. Young & Company; Catalogue of Watches – Illustrated & Priced;1911; Chicago Illinois USA