Seth Thomas Private Label & Named Grade Pocket Watches

What is a Private Label pocket watch?  How can we know which Private Label pocket watches were made by Seth Thomas? In which models, grades, and jewel counts were the various Seth Thomas Private Label watches manufactured?  Who placed the special orders that led to the production of the various Seth Thomas Private Label pocket watches? 

The Pocket Watch Database is an excellent resource for exploring and discovering the answers to these questions about the variety of Private Label pocket watches manufactured by Seth Thomas between 1885 and 1915.  In addition to the vast historical research provided by the Pocket Watch Database’s founder, Nathan Moore, there is a wealth of information to be gained by viewing, reading, and analyzing the “Collection View” pages for individual watches posted to the database by collectors from around the world.

Many of the answers to our questions were originally presented in retailers’ catalogs and advertisements, Seth Thomas catalogs and price lists, and the guides published by horologists during the years, 1885-1915, that Seth Thomas was actively manufacturing and marketing pocket watches. Other guides, published after Seth Thomas pocket watch production ceased, provide us with access to the research of others who had interest in identifying, cataloging, and describing the detailed characteristics of Seth Thomas pocket watches as well as those produced by other manufacturers, and in some instances identifying who the wholesaler or retailer was who had special ordered private label pocket watches.

Private Label pocket watches have also been referred to as “Trade Name” watches, “Named Grade” watches, or “Jeweler’s Contract” watches. The Pocket Watch Database Reference Library informs us of what is meant by the term “Private Label”:

“Modern collectors use the term “private label” to refer to any watch that was manufactured with custom markings or finishing to fulfill a special order. In original advertisements and materials, manufacturers generally offered these “Special Named” movements free of charge and offered special named dials for a small fee. “

Some Seth Thomas Private Label watches have the Private Label marked on the both the dial and the movement, others may have it marked on the movement only, and others may have it marked on the dial only. These choices were made by the individual customers who contracted with Seth Thomas to make them.

“Named Grade” watches, while also listed and depicted in this article, include only the trade name watches that are a part of a manufacturer’s standard production and are sold by the manufacturer. Private Label watches, on the other hand, are sold by the customer who contracted with the manufacturer to have them made. The named grade pocket watches manufactured and sold by Seth Thomas only include Centennial, Century, Henry Molineux, and Maiden Lane. Within the Century grade there are many private labels including “Century U.S.A.” which was manufactured for Sears, Roebuck & Company.

Within the Seth Thomas pocket watch production, there were also many series of watches. A Seth Thomas “series” is not a Seth Thomas “grade” or a Seth Thomas “private label.” The watches within the Seth Thomas series are assigned Seth Thomas grade numbers. These series included “First Series” which was Model 1, “Second Series” which was Model 3, “Third Series” which was Model 2, “Fourth Series” which was Model 4, and “Eagle Series”. The Eagle Series was divided into “Eagle Series – Old Model,” which included Model 6 and Model 7, and “Eagle Series – New Model,” which included Model 8 and Model 9. The Eagle Series also included the 6-size Model 15, Model 16, and Model 17. Within the Eagle Series, there are many private labels, including Diamond Watch Company, Empire State Watch Company, and Yale Watch Company, to name just a few.

One hundred fifteen (115) private label Seth Thomas pocket watches, many produced in multiple variations, are identified and described in “American Pocket Watches: Identification and Price Guide” Revised 1999, by Roy Ehrhardt & William “Bill” Meggers.  Despite a number of omissions and errors, this is the most comprehensive resource in identifying what Seth Thomas made during its years of manufacturing pocket watches and what those watches looked like.  A list of those one hundred fifteen (115) Seth Thomas Private Labels may be seen in the NOTES at the end of this article. It is not simple to digest; but it is a “must own” volume for Seth Thomas pocket watch collectors.

The “Complete Price Guide to Watches” 2012 Edition, by Richard E. Gilbert and Cooksey Shugart provides a wealth of detailed information in its ten pages dedicated to Seth Thomas pocket watches.

The “Encyclopedia and Price Guide of American Pocket Watches Volume 1” by Roy Erhrhadt contains an amazing amount of valuable information about Seth Thomas pocket watches in general, and about private label pocket watches especially. This is an important book for any serious Seth Thomas pocket watch collector to own.

Seth Thomas Watches 1885—1915,” compiled by Chris H. Bailey in 1981 and published by the American Clock & Watch Museum, Inc. gives us access to the earliest documentation of Seth Thomas pocket watch production.  This document serves as the North Star of all legitimate subsequent Seth Thomas research efforts.

The importance of making historical background information freely available to all who have interest in the roots of the American clock and watch industry cannot be overstated. Information that is not freely shared not only confounds the research of present day horologists; but will likely become information forever lost to the future generations of horologists.

The Pocket Watch Database, serving as a collective repository for the studies and research of many, is playing the greatest role in collecting, organizing, consolidating, and freely disseminating invaluable information to the horological community and the public at large.

The following chart was included in Encyclopedia and Price Guide of American Pocket Watches – Volume 1 by Roy Ehrhardt. It provides some good baseline information and a starting point to appreciate the array of Seth Thomas private label pocket watches that collectors should be aware of. This list is certainly not all-inclusive.

How to Identify Seth Thomas Private Label Watches

There is frequent confusion amongst pocket watch enthusiasts, collectors, and sellers, regardless of their years of involvement, around the identity of Seth Thomas Private Label pocket watches because most of the pocket watches are not signed with the Seth Thomas name on the dial nor on the movement.  Identifying the manufacturer requires knowledge of the shapes and configurations of the top plates of the many models of Seth Thomas pocket watches.  Use of the Ehrhardt American (EA) Numbered Drawings permits identification of any pocket watch manufactured in America between 1830 and 1990.  The shapes of a watch’s top plates and bridges, as well as the locations of plate screws, casing screws, pivots, balance wheel, regulator, and the mainspring, all contribute to accurately identifying a pocket watch movement by means of the Ehrhardt American (EA) Numbered Drawings. The EA Drawings for Seth Thomas pocket watches are numbered from EA 805 to EA 823. 

Seth Thomas Watch Company (1885-1915) did not provide a model number for each of the pocket watch models that they produced. Over the years since they ceased production of Seth Thomas pocket watches (1915) several methods of referring to the individual models have evolved. For the purposes of this article I have used a similar nomenclature to Ehrhardt for referring to each Seth Thomas model.  The only exception is that the model that Ehrhardt refers to as the 4-size “Model 26”; I refer to as a 6-size “Model 24”.  I am not stating this to claim that my chosen nomenclature is correct/better or that other nomenclatures are wrong/worse.  I am not stating a justification for using this particular nomenclature as that justification could be misconstrued as an argument for this nomenclature to become a standard. I am merely acknowledging that different nomenclatures exist and explaining what my practice for this article is. I apologize in advance if this creates discomfort for any readers.  This is an ambiguity that the history of Seth Thomas Watch Company left us with, and I am comfortable with it remaining officially ambiguous.

Since Seth Thomas produced Private Label pocket watches in twenty of its twenty-four models (and I have heard rumors of at least one private label in one additional model), it would be wise to become familiar with all of the Seth Thomas movement configurations in order to identify all of the Seth Thomas private label pocket watches correctly.  The task of familiarizing yourself with all twenty-four models is not as difficult as it might sound.  Several of the models share patterns of plate shape and placement of their landmark features.  Model 1, Model 3, Model 6, and Model 8 are all 18-size open-face oriented movements with 3/4 plates. It would be difficult to tell them apart without looking at the movement markings and serial numbers.  Model 7 and Model 9 are both 18-size  hunting oriented movements with 3/4 plates. It is difficult to tell the movements apart without looking at the serial numbers.  One trick in telling these 18-size movements apart when the serial numbers are not visible is to look at the balance cock.  The engraved pattern at the wide end of the balance cock is different between Models 1, 3, 6, and 8; and between 7 and 9; but the pattern can be the same between the opposite oriented pair of Old Eagle Models 6 and 7; or the opposite oriented pair of New Eagle Models 8 and 9.  Many of the 6-size models, Model 15 – Model 19, share a common 3/4 plate shape and placement of landmark features.  That leaves us with one shape for Models 1, 3, 6, and 8; one shape for Model 2; one shape for Model 4, one shape for Model 5; one shape for Models 7 and 9; one shape for Model 10; one shape for Model 11; one shape for Model 12; one shape for Model 13; one shape for Model 14; one shape for Models 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19; one shape for Model 20; one shape for Model 21; one shape for Model 22; one shape for Model 23; and one shape for Model 24.  Altogether, there are only sixteen shape patterns to learn, far fewer than the thousands that we needed to learn in my college Chinese language courses.

The  Seth Thomas Private Label Pocket Watch Chart presents information about the model number of the movement, the size of the movement, how each movement is set, whether it was manufactured to Open Face or Hunting orientation, and lastly, the Ehrhardt American Movement Identification Drawing Number.  The EA Number allows researchers to identify any unknown American movement by comparing the shapes of its plates and locations of other key features to drawings of every known pocket watch manufactured in America.  The Seth Thomas pocket watch drawing numbers range from EA 805 through EA 823. After memorizing those shapes; you will be able to recognize any pocket watch movement manufactured by Seth Thomas regardless of the movement markings that were engraved upon it.  As they were both “Century” grade, there is some lack of clarity and continuity in the accurate representation and differentiation between Model 10 and Model 12  and between Model 11 and Model 13 in the Private Label movement descriptions.  I have clarified this by using direct visual observation of Seth Thomas Private Label movements and using the correct EA Number in the Seth Thomas Private Label Pocket Watch Chart.  There are also some instances of incomplete or inaccurate information in the descriptions in “American Pocket Watches.”  I have also clarified many of these details by using direct visual observation of Seth Thomas Private Label movements and adding this information to the chart.

In the pages following the presentation of the chart, AE Numbered Drawings and photos of examples of many of the private label watches included in the chart will be presented in the same alphabetical order found in the chart.  By clicking on the name of each Private Label watch you will be brought to the Pocket Watch Database Private Label Lookup page for that particular private label. Each of the photos in this article can be enlarged by clicking directly on the image. Clicking on the serial numbers of the pocket watches presented will bring you to the Pocket Watch Database “Collection View” page for that particular watch.  Space prevents the inclusion of more than the general description provided on the Seth Thomas Private Label Pocket Watch Chart.  Detailed descriptions and history, when available, of each private label pocket watch, will be included in future articles dedicated to specific private label watches, such as the “Pan-American” article, or related groups of private label watches, such as the “Seth Thomas Trading Watches” article.  I have included the Companion, Tourist, and Traveler on the chart because they are variants that were named in the Seth Thomas Watch Company publications and advertisements.  I believe that they deserve representation here as being variants, different from the general stock pocket watches in each of their respective models.

I developed the chart presented below to help improve my own understanding of the large range of Seth Thomas private label pocket watches that were manufactured.  The information needed to create this chart was drawn from several sources:  American Pocket Watches: Identification and Price Guide (1999) by Roy Ehrhardt and William “Bill” Meggers; Encyclopedia and Price Guide for American Pocket Watches – Volume 1 by Roy Ehrhardt; Seth Thomas Watches 1885 – 1915 by Chris Hailey; American Clock & Watch Museum, Inc.; Complete Price Guide to Wathes (2012) by Richard E. Gilbert, Tom Engle, and Cooksey Shugart, and the Pocket Watch Database founded by Nathan Moore.  A full-size chart will be included in the last two pages of this article. Please feel free to print this chart for use in your daily practice.  I hope that it will be as helpful to you as it has been for me.

The last known Private Label pocket watch manufactured by Seth Thomas occurred in the final run of Model 12.  The last known Private Label was a “Republic U.S.A.” with serial number 4068501. Photographs of this pocket watch are presented in this article, not because it is collectible or valuable, but because it is the last known Seth Thomas Private Label pocket watch to be produced and has the highest serial number of any known surviving pocket watch manufactured by Seth Thomas. If there is another private label pocket watch manufactured by Seth Thomas after this one; there are no photographs of the movement, and no public documentation or recognition of a serial number or a name engraved; so there is no reason for anyone to believe that a Seth Thomas private label pocket watch with a higher serial number was manufactured or would still exist.

Photographs of Selected Seth Thomas Private Label Pocket Watches

There are frequent variations in the finish patterns within the production population of a given Private Label pocket watch. Sometimes this is done to highlight differences in model numbers, jewel counts, grades, or other features, but other times, there is no obvious feature-related reason for the variation in the finish patterns.

Where it was not possible to photograph a specimen of any particular version of a private label for inclusion in this article, links are provided to view a specimen through the Pocket Watch Database when a specimen exists there.

Detailed descriptions and history, when available, of each private label pocket watch will be included in future articles dedicated to specific private label watches, such as the “Pan-American” article, or related groups of private label watches, such as the “Seth Thomas Trading Watches” article.

I have included the Companion, Tourist, and Traveler on the chart because they are variants that were named in the Seth Thomas Watch Company publications and advertisements. I believe that they deserve representation here as being variants, different from the general stock pocket watches in each of their respective models.

The First and the Last

The first documented Private Label pocket watch manufactured by Seth Thomas occurred in Model 1, in 1885. The first known Private Label was “Dan'l. Pratt's Son Boston” with serial number 6305.  Photographs of this pocket watch are presented in this article; not because it is collectible or valuable, but because it is the first known Seth Thomas Private Label pocket watch to be manufactured. If there was another private label pocket watch manufactured by Seth Thomas before this one; there are no photographs of the movement, and no public documentation or recognition of a serial number or a name engraved; so there is no reason for anyone to believe that an earlier Seth Thomas private label pocket watch was ever manufactured or would still exist.

EA 821 – Adonis U.S.A. – 6-size – Model 18 – Serial Number 4013768 – 7 Jewels

EA 822 – Adonis U.S.A.  – 6-size – Model 24 – Serial Number 3058075 – 7 Jewels

EA 821 – Adonis U.S.A.  – 6-size – Model 18 – Serial Number 4013768 – 7 Jewels

Adonis U.S.A. is a private label in Seth Thomas 6-size hunting Model 18 and Seth Thomas 6-size open-face Model 24.

Adonis U.S.A.

EA 821 – Adonis U.S.A. – 6-size – Model 18 – Serial Number 991674 – 7 Jewels

American Best is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size open-face Model 5, manufactured for Siegel Brothers Jewelers in Boston Massachusetts U.S.A. 

In his “1980 Price Indicator” Roy Ehrhardt illustrated that the Siegel Bros. commissioned Seth Thomas to produce three different private label pocket watch lines with their name marked on the movements.  The photos in this posting are of my recently acquired example of “The King”.  Illustrations from the “1980 Price Indicator” of Siegel Bros. “The King”, “American Best” and “Workingman’s Friend” are also included in this post.

The 1908 Boston Massachusetts City Directory identifies Eli and George Siegel as the “Siegel Bros.” jewelers at 387 Washington Street in Boston.  Their business is also identified as Washington Jewelry Co. in other period documents.

American Best

EA 810 – American Best – 18-size – Model 5 – Serial Number X – 17 Jewels

EA 813C – Athabasca Made in U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number ATHABASCA12A – 7 Jewels

EA 813C – Athabasca Made in U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number ATHABASCA12B – 7 Jewels

EA 813C – Athabasca Made in U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number ATHABASCA12C – 7 Jewels

EA 821 – Athabasca Made in U.S.A. – 6-size – Model 18 – Serial Number 3252188 – 7 Jewels

EA 821 – Athabasca Made in U.S.A. – 6-size – Model 18 – Serial Number 3252273 – 7 Jewels

Athabasca is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size open-face Model 12, and 6-size hunting Model 18.

Athabasca

EA 813C – Athabasca Made in U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number 1050460 – 7 Jewels

EA 822 – Bennett Mfg Co. New York – 6-size – Model 24 – Serial Number 3053918 – 7 Jewels

Bennett Mfg Co is a private label in Seth Thomas 6-size open-face Model 24.

Bennett Mfg Co. New York

EA 822 – Bennett Mfg Co. New York – 6-size – Model 24 – Serial Number 3053828 – 7 Jewels

EA 806 – Bismark – 18-size – Model 2 – Serial Number 86422 – 11 Jewels


EA 806 – Bismark – 18-size – Model 2 – Serial Number 86441 – 11 Jewels

Bismark U.S.A. is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size hunting Model 2 and Seth Thomas 18-size open-face Model 3.

Bismark

EA 806 – Bismark – 18-size – Model 2 – Serial Number 86401 – 11 Jewels


EA 816 – Centennial – 12-size – Pendant Model 22 – Serial Number 3277689 – 7 Jewels

EA 822 – Centennial – 6-size – Pendant Model 24 – Serial Number 3052795 – 7 Jewels

Centennial is a Seth Thomas Factory Named Grade encompassing Model 21, Model 22, and Model 24.

Centennial (Factory Named Grade)

EA 815 – Centennial – 16-size – Pendant Model 21 – Serial Number 1322579 – 7 Jewels

In the summer of 1913 the Seth Thomas Clock Company issued Centennial Medals to celebrate the one-hundredth anniversary of the original founding of the company in 1813.  The medals were designed by Seth Thomas jr., the great-grandson of the founder of the Seth Thomas Clock Company. The Centennial Medals were two and one half inches (2 1/2”) in diameter, struck in bronze with a gold finish.  The obverse displays a portrait of Seth Thomas, in relief. Around the edge it reads “To Commemorate The 100th Year of Seth Thomas Clock Co”.  At the sides of the portrait “ Seth Thomas” and “1785-1859” is inscribed. On the reverse there is a figure representing Father Time holding a pendulum in his right hand swinging over a scale marked 1813 - 1913.  The pendulum ball bears the Seth Thomas trade mark. In Father Time’s left hand is a scythe.  To his right is an hourglass.

 

Later that year on September 1st of 1913 the Seth Thomas Clock Company released its Catalog No. 701 “Seth Thomas Watch Movements”. Catalog No. 701 was also marked as the “Centennial Edition” Trade Price List. 

Within the 1913 Centennial Edition Trade Price List Seth Thomas introduced “Seth Thomas ‘Centennial’ Open-Face Watches”, 7-jewel high grade movements in three sizes. All of the movements were pendant set, utilized the Breguet hairspring, and came cased and timed from the factory.

EA 814 – Century U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 11 – SETH THOMAS FAN Serial Number CENTURY11D – 7 Jewels

EA 813C – Century U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 12 – SETH THOMAS FAN Serial Number CENTURY12C – 7 Jewels

EA 814A – Century U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 13 – Serial Number 173701 – 7 Jewels

EA 821 – Century U.S.A. – 6-size – Model 18 – Serial Number 983024 – 7 Jewels 

EA 822 – Century U.S.A. – 6-size – Pendant Model 24 – Serial Number 3071734 – 7 Jewels 

It has been reported to me that imagery of this watch has been placed on another Seth Thomas pocket watch website in violation of copyright law.

It is a sure sign of the other website administrator’s jealousy of the Seth Thomas Fan Collection.

Century U.S.A. is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 10, Model 11, Model 12, and Model 13, and 6-size hunting Model 18 and 6-size open-face Model 24. Access the Seth Thomas Photo Album by Model Number to see more Century U.S.A. pocket watches.

Century (Factory Named Grade) - Century U.S.A. Private Label

EA 813– Century U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 10 – SETH THOMAS FAN Serial Number CENTURY10B – 7 Jewels

In the Sears, Roebuck & Company 1896 Spring Catalog No 102 Seth Thomas pocket watches were not a big story. There were no images of Seth Thomas movements or dials. They were included in the list of choices for watch movements to fill the advertised watch cases as the low-end seven jewel option. It wasn’t until the 1898 Fall Catalog No 107 (shown below) that images of Seth Thomas movements were on display in the Sears, Roebuck & Company catalog.  The first images included two seven-jewel Model 10 private labels, Pan-American and Century U.S.A., both lauded for their reliability.  The Century movement and glitzy case combination was marketed as a “Trading Watch”; before that definition included the installation of fake jewels covering the pivots on the top plate, and false movement markings claiming 17, 21, or 23 jewels and that the movement was adjusted.

These are Century U.S.A. Trading Watch dials that have been placed temporarily on other Model 12 movements.  An actual Century U.S.A. Trading Watch, serial number 1066094, can be found in the Pocket Watch Database Seth Thomas Image Gallery for Model 12.

Century U.S.A. Trading Watch is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 12.

Century U.S.A. Trading Watch

EA 813C – Century U.S.A. Trading Watch – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number X – 7 Jewels

Chautauqua is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 5 and 6-size Model 14. There is not one in this collection; but a Chautauqua, serial number 228528, can be found in the Pocket Watch Database Seth Thomas Image Gallery for Model 5.

Chautauqua

EA 810 – Chautauqua – 18-size – Model 5 – Serial Number xxxxxx–15 Jewels

Photos taken of an exhibit at the American Clock and Watch Museum in Bristol Connecticut on 04/14/2024.

EA 814 – Colonial U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 11 – Serial Number NONE – 7 Jewels

EA 813C – Colonial U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 12 – SETH THOMAS FAN Serial Number COLONIAL12A – 7 Jewels

EA 814A – Colonial U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 13 – Serial Number NONE – 7 Jewels

Colonial U.S.A. is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 10, Model 11, Model 12, and Model 13.

Colonial U.S.A.

EA 813 – Colonial U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 10 – Serial Number NONE – 7 Jewels

It has been reported to me that imagery of this watch has been placed on another Seth Thomas pocket watch website in violation of copyright law.

It is a sure sign of the other website administrator’s jealousy of the Seth Thomas Fan Collection.

Columbia New York is a private label in Seth Thomas 6-size hunting Model 15 and Model 16.

Columbia New York

EA 819 – Columbia New York – 6-size – Model 15 – Serial Number 154690 – 7 Jewels

EA 813C– Corona Watch Co. New York U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number CORONA12C – 7 Jewels

EA 813C– Corona Watch Co. New York U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number CORONA12E – 7 Jewels

EA 814A– Corona Watch Co. New York U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 13 – Serial Number CORONA13B – 7 Jewels

EA 814A– Corona Watch Co. New York U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 13 – Serial Number CORONA13C – 7 Jewels

EA 814A– Corona Watch Co. New York U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 13 – Serial Number CORONA13A – 7 Jewels

Corona Watch Co. New York U.S.A. is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 12 and Model 13.

Trade Marks – Watch Cases, Pocket Watches, and Precious Stones by Roy Ehrhardt identifies “Corona Watch Co., New York” as a trademark for “R. R. Fogel Co. – Retail” with watches manufactured by the Seth Thomas Watch Company.

The 1889 edition of the “New York City Directory” R.R. Fogel & Co. operated as the jewelry business of Ruben R. Fogel at 401 Broadway in New York City. Ruben R. Fogel lived at 143 E. 15th Street.

The 1910 United States Census reports that Ruben R. Fogel was a 40-year-old male jeweler, living at 157 Fort Washington Avenue in New York City.  According to the 1912 edition of the “New York City Directory” R.R. Fogel & Co. operated as the jewelry business of Ruben R. Fogel at 177 Broadway in New York City.

New York City Death Certificate # 26811 indicates that Ruben R. Fogel died on November 30, 1927, in Manhattan New York.

A December 27, 1927 article in the New York Times disclosed that Ruben Robert Fogel had left the bulk of two-million dollars to the orphanage that had sheltered him as a child.

Corona Watch Co. New York U.S.A.

EA 813C– Corona Watch Co. New York U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number CORONA12A – 7 Jewels

Cosmopolitan is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 5. There is not one in this collection; but a Cosmopolitan, serial number 225460, can be found in the Pocket Watch Database Seth Thomas Image Gallery for Model 5.

Cosmopolitan

EA 810 – Cosmopolitan – 18-size – Model 5 – Serial Number None – 17 Jewels

EA 821 – Countess Janet – 6-size – Model 18 – Serial Number 966625 – 7 Jewels

Countess Janet is a private label in Seth Thomas 6-size hunting Model 18 manufactured for Sears, Roebuck & Company for sale in their mail order catalog.

Countess Janet

EA 821 – Countess Janet – 6-size – Model 18 – Serial Number 991674 – 7 Jewels

In the Sears, Roebuck & Company 1905 Catalog No 115 and 1907 Spring and Fall Catalogs the Seth Thomas private label pocket watch, Countess Janet, was advertised. The Countess Janet movements were marketed as a “Trading Watch” in the way that we use that term today to describe 7-jewel movements that utilized fake jewels covering the pivots on the top plate, and false movement markings claiming 17, 21, or 23 jewels and that the movement was adjusted.

Criterion is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 12 and Model 13.

Criterion

EA 813C – Criterion – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number X – 7 Jewels

Diamond Watch Co. is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 6 and Model 7.

Diamond Watch Co.

EA 811 – Diamond Watch Co. – 18-size – Model 6 – Serial Number X – 7 Jewels

EA 812 – Garden City/Liberty/Eagle – 18-size – Model 7 – Serial Number 518837 – 7 Jewels

Garden City/Liberty/Eagle is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 6 and Model 7.

Garden City/Liberty/Eagle

EA 811 – Garden City/Liberty/Eagle – 18-size – Model 6 – Serial Number 517638 – 7 Jewels

1896 Lapp & Flershem Catalog

On page 424 of the 1896 Lapp & Flershem wholesale catalog there is an advertisement for Garden City private label pocket watches manufactured by Seth Thomas for Lapp & Flershem.  The Garden City movements’ available options are described for each of the three Item Numbers (No. 5, No. 6, and No. 7) that Lapp & Flershem are advertising.

Item No. 5 is a 6-size stem-wound hunting movement with 7 jewels.  It is shown to have a long-stem rose engraved on the top plate.

Item No. 6 is an 18-size stem-wound open-face movement with 7 jewels.  It is shown to have an eagle engraved on the top plate.

Item No. 7 is an 18-size stem-wound hunting movement with 7 jewels.  It is shown to have an eagle engraved on the top plate.

The advertisement states that ““Garden City” Movements are Lever Set and fit all Regular Pendant or Lever Set Cases”.

Garden City is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 6 and Model 7, and 6-size hunting Model 15. Garden City was manufactured by Seth Thomas for Lapp & Flershem.  One version of the Garden City movements bears the signature “Garden City” and the logo of Lapp & Flershem, an oval with the letters BHA within.  “BHA” stands for “Busiest House in America”.  The Garden City movement may have an unsigned fancy dial or it may have a “Garden City” signature dial. Other versions of the 18-size Garden City movements bear the engraving of an eagle. Other of the 6-size Garden City movements bear the engraving of a long-stem rose.

Some of the 6-size Garden City movements do not bear the Garden City signature or the engraved long-stem rose.  They are signed “Seth Thomas Thomaston, Conn.” on the movement, and they might have a fancy dial with no signature, or they could have a “Garden City” signature dial.

EA 806 – Earle – 18-size – Model 2 – Serial Number 76834 – 15 Jewels

EA 806 – Earle – 18-size – Model 2 – Serial Number 505814 – 15 Jewels

EA 818 – Earle – 6-size – Model 14 – Serial Number 105133 – 7 Jewels

Earle Watch Company

“Earle Watch Company” is a private label within Seth Thomas Model 2, Model 3, and Model 14. Some of the Earle Watch Company dials are signed with an EWC cluster monogram.  Others are signed EARLE in all capital letters.

The Earle Watch Company private label pocket watches were manufactured by Seth Thomas for William G. Earle, a Philadelphia jeweler born in 1850, whose store was first located at 13 N. 9th Street and later at 1030 Market Street, from 1881 until his death in 1915. William G. Earle served as a Carrier for the U.S. Postal Service from 1871-1887, prior to becoming a jeweler.

The Earle Watch Company also contracted with Illinois Watch Company to produce its Earle Watch Company pocket watch in an 18-size Railroad Grade with 21 ruby jewels, nickel finish, and micrometric regulator, that was stem wound, lever set, and adjusted.  It was Illinois Watch Company Model 6 with a full plate.

Earle

EA 807 – Earle – 18-size – Model 3 – Serial Number 73278 – 15 Jewels

EA 811A – Edgemere – 18-size – Model 8 – Serial Number 792507 – 12 Jewels

EA 812A – Edgemere – 18-size – Model 9 – Serial Number 788732 – 17 Jewels

EA 812A – Edgemere – 18-size – Model 9 – Serial Number 789726 – 12 Jewels

EA 813C – Edgemere – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number 1003934 – 7 Jewels

EA 814A – Edgemere – 18-size – Model 13 – Serial Number EDGEMERE13A – 7 Jewels

EA 820 – Edgemere – 6-size – Model 16 – Serial Number 198407 – 11 Jewels

EA 820 – Edgemere – 6-size – Model 17 – Serial Number 460205 – 7 Jewels

EA 820 – Edgemere – 6-size – Model 17 – Serial Number 461253 – 12 Jewels

EA 820 – Edgemere – 6-size – Model 17 – Serial Number 462611 – 17 Jewels

Edgemere is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 8, Model 9, Model 12, Model 13, and 6-size Model 16 and Model 17 manufactured for Sears, Roebuck & Company for sale in their retail catalog.

Edgemere

EA 811A – Edgemere – 18-size – Model 8 – Serial Number 786422 – 17 Jewels

In the Sears, Roebuck & Company 1901 Fall Catalog No 111M the 6-size 11-Jewel Model 16 Edgemere pocket watch movement manufactured by Seth Thomas debuted. This was the beginning of the Century movements’ being phased out of the Sears, Roebuck & Company catalogs.  The 11-Jewel Model 16 Edgemere has a unique appearance among the Seth Thomas Edgemere movements.  It is the only one that bears the engraving of Sears, Roebuck & Co. on its top plate and the engraving font is different than the others, and as is frequently the case, quite different from the engraving on the cut displayed in the advertisements. It is a rarely seen version of the Seth Thomas Edgemere private label movements. The 17-jewel Model 17 Edgemere movement should also be recognized as the only 6-size Seth Thomas movement to have been fitted with more than 15 jewels. This movement also bears a unique finish pattern that sets it aside from all other 6-size movements.

EA 812 – Empire State Watch Company – 18-size – Model 7 – Serial Number X – 7 Jewels

Empire State Watch Co. is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 6 and Model 7.

Empire State Watch Co.

EA 811 – Empire State Watch Co. – 18-size – Model 6 – Serial Number 528579 – 7 Jewels

Engine Special is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size hunting Model 12.

Engine Special

EA 813C – Engine Special – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number 1091017 – 7 Jewels

*References

 1.     Bailey, Chris H.; Seth Thomas Watches 1885-1915; 1981; Published by American Clock & Watch Museum, Inc.; Printed by The Bond Press, Inc., Hartford CT  06106; ISBN 0-930476-09-3

1.a 1885 R. & L. Freidlander Jobbers In American Watches Illustrated Price List, 65 & 67 Nassau Street, New York NY

1.b 1890 Illustrated Catalogue of Seth Thomas Clocks No. 495

1.c 1892 Illustrated Catalogue of Seth Thomas Clocks No. 531

1.d 1890 & 1895 Illustrated Catalog of Tools Materials, Finding and Supplies, Lapp & Flershem, 98 State Street, Chicago IL

1.e 1895 Illustrated Catalog of Tools Materials, Finding and Supplies, Lapp & Flershem, 98 State Street, Chicago IL

1.f  1896 Illustrated Catalog of Watches, A. C. Becken, 103 State Street, Chicago IL

1.g 1904 Seth Thomas Watch Material Catalog No. 650

1.h 1904 Seth Thomas Watch Material Illustrated Price List No. 671

1.i 1905 Seth Thomas Watch Movements Illustrated Price List September 15, 1905

1.j 1908 Seth Thomas Watch Movements Illustrated Price List September 1, 1908

1.k 1909 Seth Thomas Watch Movements Illustrated Price List October 1, 1909

1.l 1913 Seth Thomas Watch Movements Illustrated Price List Centennial Edition September 1, 1913

1.m 1914 Seth Thomas Clock Company Supplement No. 705 to Catalog No. 700 Illustrated Price List September 1, 1908

1.n Catalog of Seth Thomas Watch Models and Grades, compiled by Daniel J. Gaenger

1.o Seth Thomas’ Watches: Thirty Years of Manufacture, by Chris H. Bailey

1.p United States Patents granted to Herman A. T. Reinecke and Charles T. Higginbotham for watch features utilized by the  Seth Thomas Company

  

2.     Criss, David; Collectors Price Guide to American Pocket Watches 1976 Edition; 1976

  

3.     Criss, David; Collectors Price Guide to American Pocket Watches 4th Edition; 1980

  

4.     Ehrhardt, Roy; Trade Marks, Watch Cases, Pocket Watches, Precious Stones, Diamonds; 1976; Printed by Heart of America Press, Umatilla Florida 32784

  

5.     Ehrhardt, Roy; Foreign and American Pocket Watch Identification and Price Guide; 1976; Printed by Heart of America Press, P.O. Box 9808, Kansas City, MO 64134

 

6.     Ehrhardt, Roy; Pocket Watch 1976 Price Indicator Identification and Price Guide; 1976; Printed by Heart of America Press, P.O. Box 9808, Kansas City, MO 64134

  

7.     Ehrhardt, Roy; Pocket Watch 1977 Price Indicator Identification and Price Guide; 1977; Printed by Heart of America Press, P.O. Box 9808, Kansas City, MO 64134

  

8.     Ehrhardt, Roy; Pocket Watch 1978 Price Indicator Identification and Price Guide; 1978; Printed by Heart of America Press, P.O. Box 9808, Kansas City, MO 64134

  

9.     Ehrhardt, Roy; Pocket Watch 1979 Price Indicator Identification and Price Guide; 1979; Printed by Heart of America Press, P.O. Box 9808, Kansas City, MO 64134

  

10.            Ehrhardt, Roy; Pocket Watch 1980 Price Indicator Identification and Price Guide; 1976; Printed by Heart of America Press, P.O. Box 9808, Kansas City, MO 64134

  

11.            Ehrhardt, Roy and Meggers, William “Bill”; Encyclopedia and Price Guide to American Pocket Watches; 1982; Printed by Heart of America Press, Umatilla Florida 32784; ISBN: 0-913902-33-0

  

12.            Ehrhardt, Roy; American Pocket Watches – Price Guide; 1972; Printed by Heart of America Press, Umatilla Florida 32784; ISBN: 09-13902-53-5

 

 13.            Ehrhardt, Roy; American Pocket Watches – Identification and Price Guide; 1974; Printed by Heart of America Press, Umatilla Florida 32784; ISBN: 09-13902-53-5

  

14.            Ehrhardt, Roy and Meggers, William “Bill”; American Pocket Watches – Identification and Price Guide Beginning to End 1830-1990; 1990; Printed by Heart of America Press, Umatilla Florida 32784; ISBN: 09-13902-53-5

  

15.            Ehrhardt, Roy and Meggers, William “Bill”; American Pocket Watches – Identification and Price Guide Beginning to End 1830-1999; 1999; Printed by Heart of America Press, Umatilla Florida 32784; ISBN: 0-913902-53-5

 

 

16.            Ehrhardt, Roy and Meggers, William “Bill”; Vintage American Pocket Watches – Identification and Price Guide Beginning to End 1830-2009; 2009; Printed by Heart of America Press, Umatilla Florida 32784; ISBN: 978-0-615-23255-3

  

17.            Ehrhardt, Roy and Meggers, William “Bill”; American Pocket Watches – Serial Number Grade Book, 1993 Prices; 1993; Printed by Heart of America Press, Umatilla Florida 32784; ISBN: 09-13902-79-9

  

18.            Field & Company, Marshall; 1896 Illustrated Catalogue of Jewelry & Fashion; 1896; Adams, Quincy, Franklin, 5th Avenue, Chicago

  

19.            Holsman & Alter; Holsman & Alter Catalog; Unknown Date; 179 Madison Street, Chicago Illinois

  

20.            Lapp & Flershem, The Busiest House in America – 1889 Illustrated Catalogue; 1889; Chicago Illinois, USA

  

21.            Montgomery Ward & Company; Catalogue No. 57; Spring & Summer; 1895; Chicago Illinois, USA

  

22.            National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors

22.a The Railroader’s Corner – A Forum for the Discussion of Railroad Pocket Watches; Standard Watches of the Seth Thomas Clock Company; December 1998; National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors.

  

23.            Oskamp, Nolting & Co.; The Great American Jewelry Catalog; 1905; Cincinnati Ohio

 

24.            Pocket Watch Database

  

25.            Roddin & Company, E. V.; Jewelry, Watches, and Silverware; 1895; The American Historical Catalog Collection

  

26.            Sears, Roebuck & Company; Consumer’s Guide for 1894; 1894; Chicago Illinois, USA

  

27.            Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 110; 1900; Chicago Illinois, USA

  

28.            Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 111; 1902; Chicago Illinois, USA

  

29.            Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 115; 1905; Chicago Illinois, USA

  

30.            Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 121; 1910; Chicago Illinois, USA

  

31.            Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 123; 1911; Chicago Illinois, USA

  

32.            Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 125; 1912; Chicago Illinois, USA

  

33.            Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 127; 1913; Chicago Illinois, USA

  

34.            Sears, Roebuck & Company; Compiled Catalogue; 1905-1910; Chicago Illinois, USA

  

35.            Seth Thomas Clock Company; Seth Thomas Clocks No. 531;1892-1893; 49 Maiden Lane, New York New York.

  

36.            Seth Thomas Clock Company; Seth Thomas Clocks No. 675;1909-1910; 15 Maiden Lane, New York New York.

  

37.            Seth Thomas Clock Company; Seth Thomas Clocks No. 675;1909-1910; 15 Maiden Lane, New York New York.

  

38.            Shugart, Cooksey; Complete Price Guide to American Pocket Watches – First Edition; 1981; Published by Overstreet Pulications, Inc. 780 Hunt Cliff Dr. N.W., Cleveland TN  37311; ISBN: 0-517-543788

  

39.            Shugart, Cooksey; Gilbert, Richard; Engle, Tom; Complete Price Guide to Watches - 2012; Published by Tinderbox Press; ISBN: 978-0-9829487-1-2

  

40.            Shure Company, N.; The Shure Winner Pricelist; 1909; Chicago Illinois

  

41.            Smyth & Company, John, M.; Dictionary of Economy - No. 62; 1909; Chicago Illinois

  

42.            Young & Company; Catalogue of Watches – Illustrated & Priced;1911; Chicago Illinois USA