Seth Thomas Private Label & Named Grade Pocket Watches
Maiden Lane is highest quality factory named grade manufactured by the Seth Thomas Watch Company. It was only manufactured in their 18-size open-face Model 5. Movements in the Maiden Lane factory named grade were manufactured with 17, 21, 24, or 25 jewels, and they were adjusted to either five or six positions.
Maiden Lane (Factory Named Grade)
A. C. Becken Jewelers Wholesale Catalog
This is page 10 from the 1896 A.C. B, Jewelers’ Wholesale Price List, Chicago Ill.
On the top row, left to right, you can see an 18-size Model 2 with nickel finish, 20 ruby jewels, Henry Molineux grade movement; an 18-size Model 3 with nickel finish, 17 jewels at grade 506; and an 18-size Model 3 with nickel finish, 17 jewels at grade 180.
On the second row, left to right, you can see an 18-size Model 3 with nickel finish, 15 jewels at grade 152; an 18-size Model 2 with gilt finish, 7 jewels at grade 34; and an 18-size Model 5 with 21 ruby jewels at Maiden Lane grade.
On the bottom row, left to right, you can see a 6-size Model 14 with nickel finish, 15 jewels, at grade 119; a 6-size Model 14 with nickel finish, 11 jewels at grade 122; and a 6-size Model 14 with gilt finish, 7 jewels at grade 46.
A. Michaal is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 3. An advertisement in the December 2, 1898 edition of the Green Bay Gazette states that A. Michaal is a manufacturing jeweler at 216 N. Washington Street in Green Bay Wisconsin.
A. Michaal Green Bay Wis.
Montgomery Ward “20th Century” is a private label in Seth Thomas Model 6, Model 7, Model 8, and Model 9 manufactured for Montgomery Ward & Company for sale in their retail catalog.
Montgomery Ward Co. Chicago 20th Century
The 1901 Spring and Summer Montgomery Ward Catalog No. 69 contained advertisements for two product lines that Seth Thomas produced pocket watch movements for. According to the Identification and Price Guide to Pocket Watches by Roy Ehrhardt and W.F. (Bill) Meggers, Seth Thomas provided Model 8 and Model 9 Movements for both the Lakeside and the 20th Century pocket watches sold by Montgomery Ward. Seth Thomas had also previously produced the 20th Century pocket watches in their Model 6 and Model 7.
Olympia Special is a private label in Seth Thomas 6-size hunting Model 18 and Seth Thomas 6-size open-face Model 24 manufactured for Lapp & Flershem for sale in their wholesale catalog.
Olympia Special
Olympia Special is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size open-face Model 5. Olympia Special was manufactured by Seth Thomas for Lapp & Flershem.
1907 Lapp & Flershem Catalog
EA 814 – Pan-American – 18-size – Model 11 – Serial Number PANAMERICAN11B – 7 Jewels
EA 814 – Pan-American – 18-size – Model 11 – Serial Number PANAMERICAN11C – 7 Jewels
EA 813 – Pan-American – 18-size – Model 10 – Serial Number PANAMERICAN10A – 7 Jewels
EA 814 – Pan-American – 18-size – Model 11 – Serial Number PANAMERICAN11A – 7 Jewels
Pan-American is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 10 and Model 11 manufactured for Sears, Roebuck & Company for sale in their retail catalog.
Pan-American
EA 813 – Pan-American – 18-size – Model 10 – Serial Number PANAMERICAN10C – 7 Jewels
Pan-American pocket watches are Private Label pocket watches manufactured by the Seth Thomas Watch Company around 1898 that may have initially been intended as a commemorative for the Pan-American Exposition (World’s Fair) of 1901, held in Buffalo, New York from May 1, 1901, through November 2, 1901. In 1898 when the Spanish-American War broke out, plans for the Pan-American Exposition were placed on hold. The 1898-1901 advertisements for the Seth Thomas Pan-American pocket watch movement made no mention of the Pan-American Exposition at all.
The 18-size Pan-American pocket watch is a 7-jewel private label watch in Seth Thomas Model 10 (open-face orientation) and in Model 11 (hunting case orientation). They are all lever set, unadjusted, have a nickel finish, and are produced with features similar to grade “Century.” The movements for Model 10 and Model 11 can be identified by referencing the Ehrhardt American Numbered Drawings EA 813 and EA 814, respectively. The Ehrhardt American Numbered Drawings can be found in the American Pocket Watches: Identification and Price Guide (1999) by Roy Ehrhardt & Wiliam “Bill” Meggers.
The Pan-American pocket watch was advertised from 1898 through 1901 in Sears, Roebuck & Company Catalogs No. 107-111. The open-face Model 10 version is illustrated in the advertisements. It is unclear how the sale of one special Philadelphia Watch Case Company gold-filled case sold in the Sears, Roebuck & Co. catalog only came with the option of Seth Thomas Pan-American movements – whether Sears distributed all of the Pan-American movements using only two watch case makers, or whether some of the Pan-American pocket watches could have been manufactured for sale by the Philadelphia Watch Case Company in Riverside New Jersey. Three out of four of the Pan-American pocket watches in my collection have dials signed “Philad’a Watch C. Co. Riverside N.J. U.S.A.”, or “P.W.C.Co.”. The fourth dial is signed with the monogram “P-A” for Pan-American”. Unfortunately, the Pan-American pocket watch’s dial is not described in the two Sears, Roebuck & Co. catalog advertisements. The Sears, Roebuck & Co. advertisement for the Pan-American movement in a “Silverine” watch case suggests that Sears was the provider of the movement in that instance, not the Philadelphia Watch Case Co.; because it was Dueber Watch Case Company that used the term “Silverine” for their nickel alloy case material. Philadelphia Watch Case Company used the term “Silverode” for their nickel alloy case material.
Advertisement from the 1898 Sears, Roebuck & Co. Catalogue No. 107 showing the Pan-American in Model 10 with a Silverine watch case.
Advertisement from the 1898 Sears, Roebuck & Co. Catalogue No. 107 showing the Pan-American in Model 10 with a gold-filled watch case.
An identical Seth Thomas movement (except for the markings) was the standard “Century U.S.A.” offered by Sears. It was also made in the Model 10 and Model 11, and eventually in Model 12 and Model 13. Some of the Model 11 and Model 13 Century U.S.A. movements were also manufactured in gilt finish. Century U.S.A. was initially only sold in the Sears, Roebuck & Company catalog to commemorate the turn of the 20th century. The Century U.S.A. movement was also subsequently sold by A.C. Becken in their 1899 catalog (Model 10 only), and the N. Shure Company and John M. Smyth Company in their catalogs. Model 10 and Model 11 are considered “Century” grade. None of the Model 10 or Model 11 pocket watches display individual serial numbers on the top plate. Partial serial numbers are observable on the front of the pillar plate behind the dial. Colonial pocket watches were also a Private Label within the Seth Thomas Model 10 and Model 11 Century grade; but are not yet known to have been manufactured for Sears, Roebuck & Company.
Advertisement from the 1899 Sears, Roebuck & Co. Catalogue No. 109 showing the Century U.S.A. in Model 10.
Seth Thomas Pan-American pocket watch dials may be found with several signature variations. Some of the original dials bear the signature “P-A” for Pan-American. Others bear the signature “Philad’a Watch C. Co. Riverside N.J. U.S.A.,” and others are signed only “P.W.C.Co.” Unfortunately, the Pan-American pocket watch’s dial is not described in either of the two Sears, Roebuck & Co. catalog advertisements found in each of the 1898-1901 editions. There is, however, mention that the “American movement, made by the Seth Thomas Watch Co., of Thomaston Conn.”… is… “stamped Pan-American or Riverside”. There is no publicly known mention anywhere of a Seth Thomas pocket watch movement that is stamped “Riverside”. This may be an instance of confusion regarding the dial marking “Riverside N.J. U.S.A.” found on some dials with a movement marking, but that is unclear. If it was not so clearly stated that Seth Thomas was the manufacturer of the movements, one might wonder if Waltham’s “Riverside” movement was being referenced. The same reference to some of the movements being marked “Riverside” also appears in the Sears Catalog advertisements for the “Pan-American” movements that were manufactured by Trenton Watch Company.
The importance of making historical background information freely available to all who have interest in the roots of the American clock and watch industry cannot be overstated. Information that is not freely shared not only confounds the research of present-day horologists; but will likely become information forever lost to the future generations of horologists.
The Pocket Watch Database, serving as a collective repository for the studies and research of many, is playing the greatest role in collecting, organizing, consolidating, and freely disseminating invaluable information to the horological community and the public at large.
Documentation of the Pan-American Pocket Watch
In the Encyclopedia and Price Guide to American Pocket Watches Volume 1 (1982) by Roy Ehrhardt there is an entry on a “Seth Thomas Private Labels Chart” that describes the Pan-American pocket watches. The Pan-American also appears as a listing in American Pocket Watches: Identification and Price Guide (1999) by Roy Ehrhardt & Wiliam “Bill” Meggers. Their description includes that the movement is 18-size with 7 jewels, is offered in Seth Thomas Model 10 for open face and Model 11 for hunting case, both orientations are in nickel finish, and lever set. The description includes information describing the dial signature as “P-A”. Copies of their listings are included below.
Encyclopedia and Price Guide to American Pocket Watches Volume 1 (1982) by Roy Ehrhardt.
American Pocket Watches: Identification and Price Guide (1999) by Roy Ehrhardt & Wiliam “Bill” Meggers
The Pan-American Exposition of 1901 in Buffalo New York U.S.A.
President of the United States, William McKinley, was assassinated at the Pan-American Exposition’s Temple of Music on September 6, 1901. Then Vice-President, Theodore Roosevelt, became President upon William McKinley’s death on September 14, 1901.
This is a 1900 Presidential campaign button for Republican running-mates William McKinley and Theodore Roosevelt. It is kept with the Pan-American pocket watches in my collection to provide historical context.
Below are pages from my copy of “A Souvenir of Buffalo New York, Niagara Falls, and the Great Pan-American Exposition” published by James Rayne Company & Company that I have also added to my collection for historical context.
Edward Emory Pettit was a jeweler in Belvidere Illinois between 1870 and 1900. He was born on June 9, 1847 in Boone County Illinois. The 1870 US Census of Belvidere Illinois shows, that he was the apprentice to a jeweler at age 23.
In 1873, at the age of 26, Edward Emory Pettit became married to Jennie Alexander Pettit. The 1880 US Census of Belvidere Illinois shows that E.E. Pettit had already become a jeweler since the previous census in 1870 when he was still an apprentice.
There are no records from the 1890 US Census of Belvidere Illinois available; but the 1900 US Census of Belvidere Illinois shows that Edward Emory Pettit was working as a sewing machine adjuster.
Edward Emory Pettit died on January 8, 1924.
Pettit’s Special Railway
Providence is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 5. The Pocke Watch Database notes that the AWCo monogram may be for Albert Walker Company in Providence Rhode Island. I believe that the Pocket Watch Database may be correct. Thank you, Nathan Moore!!
Providence
EA 813C – Republic U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number REPUBLIC12A – 7 Jewels
Republic U.S.A. - 18-size Movements - Model 12 & Model 13
EA 813C – Republic U.S.A. – 18-size – Model 12 – Serial Number REPUBLIC12B – 7 Jewels
Republic U.S.A. - 6-size Movements - Model 18
Who Were Republic U.S.A. Movements Manufactured For?
Republic U.S.A. is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 12 and Model 13, and 6-size Model 18, Model 19, and Model 24. The Pocket Watch Data reports that Seth Thomas was one of the manufactures making Republic U.S.A. movements for the Illinois Watch Case Company.
Republic U.S.A. - 6-size Movements - Model 19 & Model 24
Fall 1910 - Butler Brothers Catalog - Number 821
The Fall 1910 Catalog Number 821, Butler Brothers’ “Book of Profits” contained advertisements for three product lines that Seth Thomas produced pocket watch movements for, Century U.S. A. in 18-size, Republic U.S.A. in 18-size and 6-size; and Waldorf U.S.A. in a 6-size movement with a 12-size dial and case, often referred to as a 12X6 and sold as a compact 12-size watch.
The John M. Smyth Company’s Dictionary of Economy No. 62 contained advertisements for a Republic U.S.A. private label pocket watch line that Seth Thomas produced movements for in 18-size Model 12 and Model 13, and 6-size movements in Model 18, Model 19, and Model 24. It also contained advertisements for the 18-size Century movements that Seth Thomas produced movements for Sears, Roebuck & Company until 1902. After that they could also be seen in the catalogs of A.C. Becken, N. Sure Company, Holsman & Alter, and W.H. Lasselle.
These catalog pages from the N. Shure Company’s catalog are believed to be from sometime between 1910 and 1915. They were selling private label Republic U.S.A. pocket watches that Seth Thomas manufactured for the Illinois Watch Case Company. They were manufactured in Seth Thomas 18-size Model 12 and Model 13, and 6-size Model 18, Model 19, and Model 24. Some of the 6-size movements were fitted with 12-size dials, placed in special compact 12-size watch cases that could accommodate a 6-size movement. These hybrid pocket watches were referred to as 12X6 pocket watches.
Another specimen of the Rex private label, serial #1035015 can be seen on the Pocket Watch Database; but it’s manufacturer was misclassified by the owner as “Other”, which would be expected with a completely unmarked movement.
Rex is a private label in Seth Thomas 18-size open-face Model 12. Rex was manufactured by Seth Thomas for Lapp & Flershem, a large wholesale jewelry house based in Chicago. Rex was significant for having no markings except for the serial number on the movement; and only “REX” on the dial.
Rex
Seth Thomas Private Label & Named Grade Pocket Watches
*References
1. Bailey, Chris H.; Seth Thomas Watches 1885-1915; 1981; Published by American Clock & Watch Museum, Inc.; Printed by The Bond Press, Inc., Hartford CT 06106; ISBN 0-930476-09-3
1.a 1885 R. & L. Freidlander Jobbers In American Watches Illustrated Price List, 65 & 67 Nassau Street, New York NY
1.b 1890 Illustrated Catalogue of Seth Thomas Clocks No. 495
1.c 1892 Illustrated Catalogue of Seth Thomas Clocks No. 531
1.d 1890 & 1895 Illustrated Catalog of Tools Materials, Finding and Supplies, Lapp & Flershem, 98 State Street, Chicago IL
1.e 1895 Illustrated Catalog of Tools Materials, Finding and Supplies, Lapp & Flershem, 98 State Street, Chicago IL
1.f 1896 Illustrated Catalog of Watches, A. C. Becken, 103 State Street, Chicago IL
1.g 1904 Seth Thomas Watch Material Catalog No. 650
1.h 1904 Seth Thomas Watch Material Illustrated Price List No. 671
1.i 1905 Seth Thomas Watch Movements Illustrated Price List September 15, 1905
1.j 1908 Seth Thomas Watch Movements Illustrated Price List September 1, 1908
1.k 1909 Seth Thomas Watch Movements Illustrated Price List October 1, 1909
1.l 1913 Seth Thomas Watch Movements Illustrated Price List Centennial Edition September 1, 1913
1.m 1914 Seth Thomas Clock Company Supplement No. 705 to Catalog No. 700 Illustrated Price List September 1, 1908
1.n Catalog of Seth Thomas Watch Models and Grades, compiled by Daniel J. Gaenger
1.o Seth Thomas’ Watches: Thirty Years of Manufacture, by Chris H. Bailey
1.p United States Patents granted to Herman A. T. Reinecke and Charles T. Higginbotham for watch features utilized by the Seth Thomas Company
2. Criss, David; Collectors Price Guide to American Pocket Watches 1976 Edition; 1976
3. Criss, David; Collectors Price Guide to American Pocket Watches 4th Edition; 1980
4. Ehrhardt, Roy; Trade Marks, Watch Cases, Pocket Watches, Precious Stones, Diamonds; 1976; Printed by Heart of America Press, Umatilla Florida 32784
5. Ehrhardt, Roy; Foreign and American Pocket Watch Identification and Price Guide; 1976; Printed by Heart of America Press, P.O. Box 9808, Kansas City, MO 64134
6. Ehrhardt, Roy; Pocket Watch 1976 Price Indicator Identification and Price Guide; 1976; Printed by Heart of America Press, P.O. Box 9808, Kansas City, MO 64134
7. Ehrhardt, Roy; Pocket Watch 1977 Price Indicator Identification and Price Guide; 1977; Printed by Heart of America Press, P.O. Box 9808, Kansas City, MO 64134
8. Ehrhardt, Roy; Pocket Watch 1978 Price Indicator Identification and Price Guide; 1978; Printed by Heart of America Press, P.O. Box 9808, Kansas City, MO 64134
9. Ehrhardt, Roy; Pocket Watch 1979 Price Indicator Identification and Price Guide; 1979; Printed by Heart of America Press, P.O. Box 9808, Kansas City, MO 64134
10. Ehrhardt, Roy; Pocket Watch 1980 Price Indicator Identification and Price Guide; 1976; Printed by Heart of America Press, P.O. Box 9808, Kansas City, MO 64134
11. Ehrhardt, Roy and Meggers, William “Bill”; Encyclopedia and Price Guide to American Pocket Watches; 1982; Printed by Heart of America Press, Umatilla Florida 32784; ISBN: 0-913902-33-0
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15. Ehrhardt, Roy and Meggers, William “Bill”; American Pocket Watches – Identification and Price Guide Beginning to End 1830-1999; 1999; Printed by Heart of America Press, Umatilla Florida 32784; ISBN: 0-913902-53-5
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18. Field & Company, Marshall; 1896 Illustrated Catalogue of Jewelry & Fashion; 1896; Adams, Quincy, Franklin, 5th Avenue, Chicago
19. Holsman & Alter; Holsman & Alter Catalog; Unknown Date; 179 Madison Street, Chicago Illinois
20. Lapp & Flershem, The Busiest House in America – 1889 Illustrated Catalogue; 1889; Chicago Illinois, USA
21. Montgomery Ward & Company; Catalogue No. 57; Spring & Summer; 1895; Chicago Illinois, USA
22. National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors
22.a The Railroader’s Corner – A Forum for the Discussion of Railroad Pocket Watches; Standard Watches of the Seth Thomas Clock Company; December 1998; National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors.
23. Oskamp, Nolting & Co.; The Great American Jewelry Catalog; 1905; Cincinnati Ohio
24. Pocket Watch Database
25. Roddin & Company, E. V.; Jewelry, Watches, and Silverware; 1895; The American Historical Catalog Collection
26. Sears, Roebuck & Company; Consumer’s Guide for 1894; 1894; Chicago Illinois, USA
27. Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 110; 1900; Chicago Illinois, USA
28. Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 111; 1902; Chicago Illinois, USA
29. Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 115; 1905; Chicago Illinois, USA
30. Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 121; 1910; Chicago Illinois, USA
31. Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 123; 1911; Chicago Illinois, USA
32. Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 125; 1912; Chicago Illinois, USA
33. Sears, Roebuck & Company; Catalogue No. 127; 1913; Chicago Illinois, USA
34. Sears, Roebuck & Company; Compiled Catalogue; 1905-1910; Chicago Illinois, USA
35. Seth Thomas Clock Company; Seth Thomas Clocks No. 531;1892-1893; 49 Maiden Lane, New York New York.
36. Seth Thomas Clock Company; Seth Thomas Clocks No. 675;1909-1910; 15 Maiden Lane, New York New York.
37. Seth Thomas Clock Company; Seth Thomas Clocks No. 675;1909-1910; 15 Maiden Lane, New York New York.
38. Shugart, Cooksey; Complete Price Guide to American Pocket Watches – First Edition; 1981; Published by Overstreet Pulications, Inc. 780 Hunt Cliff Dr. N.W., Cleveland TN 37311; ISBN: 0-517-543788
39. Shugart, Cooksey; Gilbert, Richard; Engle, Tom; Complete Price Guide to Watches - 2012; Published by Tinderbox Press; ISBN: 978-0-9829487-1-2
40. Shure Company, N.; The Shure Winner Pricelist; 1909; Chicago Illinois
41. Smyth & Company, John, M.; Dictionary of Economy - No. 62; 1909; Chicago Illinois
42. Young & Company; Catalogue of Watches – Illustrated & Priced;1911; Chicago Illinois USA